Russian manicures have rapidly risen in popularity in the last few years. The trendy (often controversial) treatment—famed for its clean, polished appearance–has recently gone viral on social media, with users showing off their flawless nails. The extremely specialized manicure is aptly named as it is believed to have originated in Russia and surrounding regions, but it can also be referred to as an e-file, modern, waterless, combi (meaning a combination of bits and scissors), or hardware manicure.
What exactly is a Russian manicure, though? What are the benefits, risks, and is the nail treatment even legal? We asked four celebrity manicurists for their unbridled thoughts, so read on to see if the treatment is right for you before you book your first appointment.
What is a Russian manicure?
A Russian manicure is a “high-end, specialized type of manicure that utilizes detailed cuticle exfoliation using an electric nail file with diamond bits and occasionally special, extremely sharp cuticle scissors,” says celebrity manicurist and educator Julie Kandalec. One nail drill is used to clean the nail bed, then a different type of drill bit is usually utilized to remove excess cuticle, and then lastly, the nail bed is polished. The treatment is also unique as it is completely waterless and doesn't require any soaking in water.
Besides the precise cuticle work, the other classic aspect of a Russian manicure is the use of a specialized base coat (catered to your nail’s length and strength). Additionally, polish is painted as close to the cuticle line as possible, usually accomplished with a thin brush. As far as type of polish, Russian manicures “usually involve applying a nail coating in gel or Acrygel (or sometimes both) plus gel color,” adds Kandalec.
The entire process can take two to three hours, and it provides a highly photogenic appearance—but there is a high risk of accidental damage if something goes wrong.
What are the benefits of a Russian manicure?
If you’re a fan of perfection, you might like the Russian manicure. “The cuticle area is flawless,” says Kandalec. “The exfoliation from the diamond bits creates a super clean cuticle area that allows the gel or Acrygel to get extra close to the cuticle area, which allows the manicure to last up to four weeks,” she adds. The electronic file removes every bit of excess skin from the nail plate, so it also allows for superior adhesion and, thus, longevity.
The potential risks are similar to those of other manicures, says Kandalec. “Visiting a nail pro who is not trained properly, does not disinfect tools properly, or takes too much skin off when not necessary can cause infection or damage,” she says. This is a highly specialized technique—not just anyone can pick up an e-file and cuticle scissors and master this,” adds Kandalec.
Nail artist Naima Coleman echos Kandalec. “In the hands of a trained professional, it is safe, but with an inexperienced newbie, not so much,” she says. “I don't like to offer this service as it is the complete removal of the cuticle, which, if done repetitively, can result in a nail infection called chronic paronychia,” says Coleman. “We also shouldn’t be removing skin surrounding the nail plate at all. This can cause excessive damage to the skin, along with redness, excessive regrowth of hardened callus tissue, itching, allergies, etc.,” Coleman adds. Russian manicures often involve removing living skin, which is any excess skin beyond cuticles around the nail plate.
Russian manicures are a detailed and complex treatment that can take years to perfect. In fact, Kandalec has been offering this technique at her nail salon, Julie K Nail Artelier, for three years, and she believes there is still room to learn more. This is precisely why you should be your own advocate regarding Russian manicures, especially regarding cleanliness and safety. Ensure only sterilized instruments are used on you—ask specifically if the tools have been sterilized and how. Also, make sure disposables, like files, wood sticks, or buffers, are not being reused from a previous client for your treatment. A Russian manicure requires a different level of sterilization (hospital-grade disinfectants); only qualified and experienced practitioners should perform these treatments.
Celebrity nail artist Angel My Linh says Russian manicures look gorgeous when done correctly. “However, I don’t think they are for everyone, especially those with more sensitive skin around the cuticle area,” she advises. Indeed, some people just aren’t a fit for Russian manicures. Ask your nail professional, who can tell you if you’re a candidate or not.
It’s also illegal in some states (yes, really). “In New York, we [nail professionals] are not allowed to cut living skin,” says Kandalec. The State Board of Cosmetology regulates each state's laws and there is a gray area when it comes to how close is “too close" to the skin beyond the cuticle.
Price can also be a consideration. This is a highly advanced technique, which is certainly worth investing in for a trained professional. Expect to pay anywhere from $100 to $250—and more—for a single Russian manicure.
What should you know before a Russian manicure?
“The biggest thing to know before getting a Russian manicure is that it’s done dry and completely waterless and with no cuticle softeners, meaning that–and some people find this surprising–the drier your cuticles are beforehand, the better so they can be exfoliated off more effectively,” says Kandalec. She advises not to use cuticle oils or lotions two to three days before your appointment. You can then resume these products after your appointment.
Shop the Best Products for Your Russian Manicure
CHANEL Le Blanc Huile
Do your nails deserve nothing but the best? Kandalec swears by this facial oil for a beautiful, red-carpet-worthy hydrated glow for cuticles and hands. “This is in my kit right now,” she says.
La Mer The Hand Treatment
Whether on an editorial shoot or prepping a client’s hands for the red carpet, Kandalec loves this luxurious hand cream.
CND SolarOil
This iconic cuticle softener is a blend of jojoba and rice bran oils, sweet almond seed, and Vitamin E for instantly more hydrated nails.
Dr. Dana Beauty Deep Hydrating Formula
Create a stronger nail that is less prone to breakage, peeling, and brittleness over time with this gel-oil treatment.
Paume Organic Cotton Overnight Gloves
Make any hand cream a deep hand mask treatment with these moisturizing gloves, designed to be worn overnight.
Feeling unsure about the salon or expert? When in doubt, politely walk away. As famed celebrity nail artist Imarni says, “It is more aggressive than a regular manicure, so there is more potential for infection.” Sometimes, a sleek nail look isn’t worth it if you feel something is off with the salon or expert.
Meet the Experts
- Julie Kandalec is a celebrity manicurist and educator.
- Naima Coleman is an editorial and celebrity nail artist.
- Angel My Linh is a celebrity nail artist.
- Imarni is a celebrity nail artist.
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Kristin Limoges
Freelance Editor
Kristin Limoges is a freelance editor, covering all things beauty, wellness, and travel. She was previously the wellness editor at Domino Magazine. Kristin can usually be found face, hair, and body masking simultaneously, while thinking-up clever DIYs for her small-space Chinatown apartment.
